Waimanu Valley, Hawaii

Waimanu Valley is one of the most secluded places in all of Hawaii. The only way to reach this valley is to trek 9 grueling miles (one way) or kayak through the treacherous ocean. It contains majestic waterfalls that fall more than a thousand feet from the densely vegetated valley walls, a dark black sand beach juxtaposed against the beautifully clear blue ocean, and the rejuvenating peace you may not have known your soul needed. 

I embarked on the Waimanu Valley Trek via the Muliwai Trail on the Big Island of Hawaii, a mere 6 weeks after completing my chemotherapy. This trek isn't designed for the faint-hearted, yet I believe even novices can navigate it successfully. After all, I invited two of my best friends along, neither of whom had ever been on a trek before. 

This 9 mile trek begins at Waipio Valley. I would suggest you find a ride to drop you off and have a plan for pick up. You can rent a car, but it must be a 4WD as the road down into Waipio and to the trail head is incredibly steep. You can also call ahead and park your car at the Waipio Valley Artworks. It is expensive. The best route is to have someone drop you off and walk down the valley or even hitch a ride. Hitchhiking is common and pretty safe in Hawaii.

Be aware that you will need to purchase your camp site in advanced and bring a copy of the permit. We were stopped and asked for it before we began our hike. I liked campsite 8 and 9 best as they were farthest away from other people and closest to the spring water. We had both a hammock and tent set up for camping but the hammock was my favorite.

Once you get to the bottom of Waipio you will have your first river crossing. There are around 12 water crossings in this hike, so trekking poles will be your best friend. The first and last water crossings are the most difficult. I chose to wear my hiking boots through all the water crossings as I would rather have sure footing and hike in wet shoes than to risk falling in and all my gear getting soaked. My friend chose to switch to her Chacos and promptly lost her hiking boots to the water. Her feet suffered.

After your first water crossing then the real fun begins. Just like you had to get down into Waipio Valley, now you have to hike straight up out of it. This is a 7,000ft elevation gain! Take your time. Pace yourself. Start this trek as early as possible so you don’t have to worry about not making it before dark.

Once you get out of the valley the trek is a series of ups and downs, not quite as dramatic, until the end when you have to hike down into Waimanu Valley. This trek offers splendid views of the ocean and waterfalls. One of my favorite things was how the trail evolved. At times it was like hiking through the rain forest and then it abruptly changed and you’d be surrounded by white pine trees, needles muffling your footsteps making the world around you go quiet. 

Once you get down the other side of the valley you will have your final water crossing, river crossing I mean. The water got chest high but there was a kayak we could put our gear in and rope to hold above our heads. The river isn’t rushing so it really is an easy crossing apart from the depth.